Popular science of the main chemical ingredients in mainstream skin care products
Moisturizing and hydrating needs - hyaluronic acid
In the consumption of online skin care chemical raw materials in 2019, hyaluronic acid ranked first. Hyaluronic acid (commonly known as hyaluronic acid)
It is a natural linear polysaccharide existing in human and animal tissues. As the main component of extracellular matrix, it is mainly distributed in the vitreous body, joints, umbilical cord, skin and other parts of the human body, and plays an important physiological function. Hyaluronic acid has good physical and chemical properties and biological functions such as water retention, lubricity, viscoelasticity, biodegradability and biocompatibility. Factor, generally 2% pure hyaluronic acid aqueous solution can firmly maintain 98% moisture, therefore, hyaluronic acid is widely used in the field of cosmetics.
Whitening needs - niacinamideNiacinamide is the most talked about whitening ingredient and is a B3 vitamin. The mechanism of action of nicotinamide has three aspects: one is to accelerate metabolism and promote the shedding of melanin-containing keratinocytes; the other is that it can act on the already produced melanin and reduce its transfer to the surface cells, and the third nicotinamide can also promote epidermal proteins. Synthetic, enhance the skin's own defense ability, increase skin moisture content. However, nicotinamide with low purity can cause intolerance. Therefore, nicotinamide in cosmetics has stricter control on raw materials and impurities, so the standard in formula design and process is relatively high.
Whitening needs - VC and its derivatives
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid, Asorbic Acid, the most effective is its left-right-handed optical structure, also known as L-ascorbic acid), is the earliest and most classic whitening ingredient, and both internal and external use have whitening effects. It can inhibit melanin synthesis, restore melanin, increase collagen content to improve skin tone, reduce vascular permeability and reduce inflammation, so it also has a good effect on inflammation and redness.
Similar ingredients include VC derivatives, which are milder and more stable. Common ones include VC ethyl ether, magnesium/sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and ascorbyl palmitate. They are generally safe, but high concentrations will be irritating, not stable enough, and easily oxidized and decomposed by light damage.
Anti-aging needs - peptidesAt present, the age of use of anti-aging products is declining, and young people are constantly pursuing anti-aging. The most well-known anti-aging ingredients are peptide ingredients. Many high-end cosmetic brands have added "peptides" to their anti-aging products. Peptides are proteins with between 2-10 amino acids (the smallest unit of protein). Peptides can promote the proliferation of collagen, elastic fibers and hyaluronic acid, increase skin moisture content, increase skin thickness and reduce fine lines. Previously, Proya announced the establishment of a joint venture company in China with Spain's Singuladerm. The company's star single product SOS emergency repair ampoule featured acetyl hexapeptide-8, a neurotransmitter blocking peptide, similar to the mechanism of botulinum toxin. By inhibiting acetylcholine, local Blocks nerves that transmit muscle contraction signals, relaxes facial muscles, and smoothes wrinkles, especially expression lines.
Anti-aging needs - A-alcohol (retinol)A-alcohol (retinol) is a member of the vitamin A family. The vitamin A family includes retinol (that is, A-alcohol), retinoic acid (A-acid), and retinal (A-aldehyde). , and a variety of retinol esters (A esters).
A-alcohol works by converting into A-acid in the body. In theory, A-acid has the best effect. However, because A-acid is very irritating to the skin and has side effects, it cannot be used in skin care products according to national regulations. . Therefore, most of the skin care products we usually use add A alcohol or A ester, which is slowly converted into A acid after entering the skin. The main functions of A-alcohol used in skin care are as follows: light lines, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging: A-alcohol has the effect of regulating the metabolism of epidermis and stratum corneum, can effectively reduce fine lines and wrinkles, smooth rough skin, and improve skin texture; fine pores: A-alcohol can increase cell renewal and prevent collagen breakdown, thereby improving skin texture and making pores less visible;. Acne: A-alcohol can remove acne, acne marks, and topical use is helpful for acne, pustules, and boils. , the treatment of skin surface ulcers embolism. In addition, A-alcohol can also whiten and antioxidant.
A-alcohol works well, but it also has disadvantages. On the one hand, it is unstable. When added to skin care products, the effect will become weaker after a long time, and it will also decompose under the condition of long-term light, which will irritate the skin during the decomposition process. On the other hand, it is irritating to a certain extent. If the skin is not tolerated, it is prone to skin allergies, itching and bursting, redness and burning sensation.
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